Categories
Chile

Punta Arenas, Chile – land of wind, sheep estancias, and 11 penguins on the Strait of Magellan

Punta Arenas, Chile
Punta Arenas on the strait of Magellan

Total Miles Traveled: 9,304

From Torres del Paine, we traveled by bus about 5-6 hours, stopping briefly in Puerto Natales before arriving in Punta Arenas which overlooks the strait of Magellan to Tierra del Fuego.  It is the southernmost city in Chile (about 150,000 residents) and departure point for Antarctica.  The weather can be severe here, being nice and sunny in one moment and then cold, windy, and rainy in another.   Apparently, Richard Gere spent almost a month here while waiting for the weather to clear up so he could travel by boat out to Antarctica.

Outside of getting to Antarctica, Punta Arenas is known for its sheep farming and its penguin colonies at Seno Otway and Isla Magdalena.  The latter is said to have a population of 150,000 penguins, while the former has about 6,000.  Well, in our case, it was more like 11 penguins, that we could see at least.  But, we arrived late in the season and supposedly they were already migrating north to Brazil.   It would have been cool to walk amongst thousands of penguins, but alas, that was not the case.  Still cool to see them up close and in the wild though.

Magellan penguins at Seno Otway Sound
Magellan penguins on the beach at Seno Otway

One final note, we stayed at a rustic B&B tucked away in the forest called Casa Escondida.  Again, an interesting story to be told.  The co-owner, Luis, was a character.  At 17, he had bought a round-trip ticket from Venezuela to Houston, Texas to see Pink Floyd in concert.  He made it to the concert but didn’t take that return flight.  He returned to Chile some 11 years later after working in Houston near where I grew up (Greenspoint Mall) and studying music in Atlanta where he was a bass guitarist in a band.   Then, he got a degree in English education and became an English teacher in Santiago, Chile before starting the B&B with his wife in Punta Arenas.  And get this, he built all of the cabins and furniture by himself.  It took him the better part of 2.5 years full time…  Here’s a photo of the sauna he built:

The sauna at Casa Escondida

Want to see more photos? Click here to see a slideshow on Flickr

Categories
Chile

Torres del Paine, Chile – an awesome wonder

Torres del Paine, Chile

Total Miles Traveled: 9,102

We’ve crossed the border in to Chile to visit the famous Torres del Paine park.  It’s known for the “W” hike that can be done in about 4-5 days and without camping because there are basic shelters with full board along the way.  Alas, we didn’t do the hike (you outdoors types would be aghast) since we consciously chose to travel with roller bags to avoid carrying large packs for a few months or more.  But, we did see some gorgeous vistas and did a couple of day hikes in the area.

Before we get to the photos, a couple of interesting notes about the area:

1.) The mountains are wholly separate from the Andes mountain range.  They were formed from lava pushing up the granite and sedimentary rock from below, but the mountains themselves are not volcanic.  You’ll see in the pictures that the mountains are lighter colored at the base which is granite rock, and then sedimentary (darker) rock above.

2.) Some of the lakes have an unusual light blue color.  The color is a function of how much sediment from the mountains and glaciers is in the water.  The more sediment, the light blue/gray in color.

Without further ado, a few choice photos, and make sure to click to see more on Flickr.

Torres del Paine, Chile
Torres del Paine, overlooking Lago Nordenskjold
Torres del Paine, Chile
Lago Pehoe
Torres del Paine, Chile
A view of Torres del Paine from our cabin at Hotel Tyndall

Want to see more photos? Click here to see more on Flickr


Categories
Argentina

Perito Moreno Glacier, near El Calafate, Argentina

Total Miles Traveled: 8,912

We’ve made our way south to the Patagonia area, flying in to El Calafate, Argentina. The highlight thus far has been the Perito Moreno glacier, both looking at it and hiking on it. Here’s a video taken by Lisa – it’s a huge chunk of ice falling off the glacier. If you’ve been to a glacier before, you know that this doesn’t happen regularly, so take a look:

Here’s Lisa, overlooking the north face of the Perito Moreno glacier:

Perito Moreno

And, finally, here’s the south face of the glacier where we did some ice hiking.  Beautiful!

Perito Moreno

And here’s the full set of photos. View on Flickr here for full-size photos.

[flickrslideshow acct_name=”tony-chen” id=”72157623523534999″ width=”600″]

Many more pictures to be uploaded, but Internet access can be slow. Right now, we’ve just finished a couple of days in the Torres del Paine park in Chile, which is just across the border from El Calafate. Tomorrow, we’re headed down to Puntas Arenas, Chile, to check out a penguin colony before flying to Puerto Montt, Chile, where we will begin our trek through the Lakes district of Chile and Argentina.

Categories
Argentina

El Calafate, Argentina – a Japanese Inn and cordero asado (grilled lamb)

Mi Vieja, Parilla en El Calafate

Total Miles Traveled: 8,876

El Calafate is a city of about 150,000 people in southern Patagonia on the Argentinean side.   Most people stop here on the way to the Perito Moreno glacier or to head up to El Chalten to hike Mount Fitzroy.

We stayed at the Miyazoto Inn – yes, a Japanese B&B, all the way out here in southern Argentina – complete with homemade Japanese pastries, domo arigato.   Jorge and Elizabeth Miyazoto are the owners/hosts and both are Okinawan by ancestry, but Jorge grew up in Buenos Aires and Elizabeth is 3rd generation Japanese-Peruvian.   They moved to Calafate after visiting on vacation and being fed up with the corporate world in Tokyo.   And, in the winter, Jorge travels to the Los Angeles area to work as a gardener to earn some extra income to support his family.  Interesting, no?

So, on to food… we’re still in Argentina, so the meat fest continues.  A Patagonian specialty is grilled lamb (pictured above), so on Jorge’s recommendation, we head in to town to eat at Mi Vieja.

Here you see marinated lamb tongue.  When in Rome, right?   Honestly, it doesn’t look that appetizing, but it wasn’t awful – it tasted a bit like cold kielbasa sausage.

Mi Vieja - lamb tongue

And for the main dish, we got “cordero asado” or grilled lamb, which was awesome.  To our surprise, it was only seasoned with salt and then grilled, no more, no less.  Here we are at the Mi Vieja restaurant, getting photo-bombed by the couple behind us.   I think the woman’s face is particularly scary – well done, amiga.

Mi Vieja - Photobombed!

Finally, we went shopping for food before heading down to Torres del Paine because word had it that meals were exorbitantly expensive.  The grocery store was like any other but with a mix of local and international brands.  We found the shopping baskets to be the most interesting – they were ones you could carry, but also put on the ground and roll behind you.  Brilliant.

Supermercado, El Calafate

Categories
Argentina

Buenos Aires – Retiro and San Telmo

Subway in Buenos Aires

Today, we explored beyond Recoleta and took a subway to the Retiro/Plaza San Martin area, east of Recoleta. We then walked down to San Telmo, which is one of the older parts of Buenos Aires, where most of the wealthy lived before being pushed out by a plague many years ago. By day, San Telmo shows off its antique shops and markets where you can buy all kinds of knick knacks and hipster wear. The irony is most of it could be considered junk and stuff people donate to the Salvation Army, but they’re charging $20 USD for a funky/retro t-shirt, for example. The antiques look quite creepy because they’re all together and there are things like old plastic baby dolls you see in horror flicks. In fact, it would be a set designer’s dream to browse through the antique shops in San Telmo.

San Telmo, Buenos Aires

View some photos in the full screen “IMAX” experience on Flickr from the rest of our days in Buenos Aires.

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Categories
Argentina

A stroll around Recoleta

Today, we explored the cemetary at Recoleta where many rich and famous, including Eva Peron, are buried.  As you’ll see in the photos, there are hundreds if not thousands of tombs, all built up and decorated in different ways – some old, some very modern. Then, we stopped at the La Biela cafe for beers and snacks – there were a lot of locals mixed in with tourists, and a passionate singer, who couldn’t quite sing. But the dramatic lyrics, dry ice smoke, and Stella Artois made up for it.

[flickrslideshow acct_name=”tony-chen” id=”72157623603429772″ width=”600″]

Categories
Argentina

More Photos from Palermo

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Categories
Argentina

Bienvenido a Buenos Aires

Palermo Viejo

Total Miles Traveled: 7,581

Hola Buenos Aires.   We’re staying in the Palermo Viejo barrio for a few days before heading to el Calafate in southern Patagonia.  The area reminds us of a mixture of New York SoHo chic, with its designer clothing stores and cool cafes, and a bit of grit and indie from the East Village.  And having followed fashion in my last job, it looks a lot like L.A., though maybe a season ago (can’t believe I am actually able to comment on that… thanks beso)?   Haven’t spotted any hipsters yet, but it’s only day 1!

What I’m more excited about is the food.  Folks, I think we’ve found meat heaven.  Palermo is known for its restaurants and bars and we’ve been advised to go to parillas like la Cabrera for dishes like lomo a la pimienta (tenderloin with peppers) and the bife de chorizo (like a NY strip, called a rump steak).  Yum.  Can’t wait to see how it compares to what we’ve had in the States.  Even more exciting though is that there appears to be a wide variety of restaurants beyond parillas, so it’s not all about beef here.

Finally, the weather right now is about 80 degrees F with 80% humidity.  For those New Yorkers following along, it feels like New York in late summer – sticky but tolerable, and hoping that the next rain cloud brings a breeze and a bit of relief…

-TC

Categories
U.S.

Goodbye San Diego

Mambo and Cha Cha are sad to see us go

Here’s a shot of Mambo and Cha Cha, a couple of Havanese dogs who belong to Lisa’s parents, Ommy and Dudley.  As you can see, they’re definitely sad to see us leave San Diego.   One of my goals this year is to improve my photography skills and learn to really use my camera.  So, I’m going to post one “photo of the day”, every day, going forward!

Today, we finally finished packing our lives in to 3 carry-on roller bags, 2 day-packs, and 1 camera bag, between the two of us.   This is probably the lightest I’ve ever packed with just enough clothes for about 4 days, and lots of different layers, since we’re going to be in South America at the tail end of summer going in to fall.   Not ideal for packing light, but we figure you can always buy more clothes or shed things along the way.  In fact, most of the clothes we are bringing are old clothes we found in our closet as we were packing up our apartment.  They may not look the most fashionable or match, but who cares, right?

Tomorrow is Day 1 of our international travel – Los Angeles to Buenos Aires.   I don’t think it will really hit us that we’re embarking on a year-long trip until the plane accelerates down that runway.

Total Miles Traveled:  1,086

-Tony

Categories
U.S.

Burbank with Vanessa and Marina

Dinner with Vanessa and Marina

Beijos to Vanessa and Marina for hosting and feeding us as we make our way south to San Diego – the new apartment is beautiful and the food was fantastic!   Lisa finished up her last day at Disney after 6 years of service and she leaves with great memories, residual fairy dust, and hopes to return some day!